Chef Christophe Mamelonet: surpassing himself despite the swell


By Guillaume Diotte
6 min read


The executive chef of the Fisherman's House, Christophe Mamelonet.

Chef Christophe Mamelonet: Surpassing oneself despite the swell

Simon Carmichael
SIMON CARMICHAEL
Local Journalism Initiative - The Sun
"Celebrate? No, we haven't had time for that. If I win, we'll open a sparkling wine!" promises Christophe Mamelonet. After long storms, between the wrath of the sea that ravaged the restaurant and the swell of a relative's sudden departure, the Gaspé chef, who is in the running to be the Lauriers de la Gastronomie's revelation of the year, continues to surpass himself, one plate at a time.
"Don't pay attention to the mess, we're opening in a month, so we have everything to do," says the young chef as he opens the restaurant's door. The next few weeks will be particularly challenging for the Maison du Pêcheur team. Not only will they kick off "the most promising tourist season to date," but they'll also find out if the local chef, Christophe Mamelonet, wins the title of revelation of the year at the Lauriers de la gastronomie québécoise. For the first time, the 27-year-old chef, described by the judges as "a talent to watch and a true rising star in the Gaspé restaurant world," is on the short list of finalists for one of Quebec's most prestigious culinary awards. "I was at the hardware store when one of my former teachers called to congratulate me. I didn't really understand, but when I realized it, I forgot what I was going to buy," says Christophe. "I didn't even think it was possible to be a finalist in the Gaspé. I was very surprised that they thought of us!"
The executive chef of the Maison du pêcheur in Percé, Christophe Mamelonet, has a clear desire to preserve the historical and family heritage of the establishment specializing in the promotion of fish and seafood.
Well established in the heart of the small community of Percé, the executive chef of the Maison du Pêcheur admits that the waves of recent years have been particularly fierce. In 2015, the former mayor, MP, chef, and, above all, father, George Mamelonet, died in a car accident caused by a drunk driver in the Bas-Saint-Laurent region. He had inaugurated the Maison du Pêcheur in 1985. On December 30, 2016, as the family struggled to recover from the ordeal that had been placed before them, the facade of the Fisherman's House was completely destroyed by water during a violent storm. "I saw the restaurant being demolished live . It was terrible, there was nothing we could do." " motivated us. We wanted to show what we were capable of despite everything,” says Christophe.
Five years later, the chef considers his mission accomplished. He takes his nomination to the Lauriers as a very personal token of respect from his culinary colleagues. "It's by the industry for the industry. It's a huge recognition." Combining recipes from the past with the present Even in 2021, the menus are concocted with a focus on tradition. "Last night, we were looking at the handwritten menus my father had put together. We'll probably bring back one or two recipes for this summer," notes Christophe. He has a clear desire to preserve the historical and family heritage of the establishment, which specializes in showcasing fish and seafood. He also emphasizes his commitment to creating menus based on local ingredients. The vast majority of the food found on the plates at Maison du Pêcheur not only comes from Quebec, but many also travel only a few kilometers. From the "merroir" products to the oils used, including the vegetables and sprouts that color the plates, the Gaspé is everywhere. "We feel that producers are proud to be here, and it shows in the quality of their products. We want to encourage our people," says Christophe. "My father has always been drawn to local products. It's part of our values, and we have no intention of changing that." When Christophe talks about fresh produce, he means it. Like George Mamelonet, he plans to personally pick the evening's lobsters, stored in tanks just off the Percé wharf. "I was born in the water, and I have no intention of giving that up," he says. "Plus, tourists love seeing us haul out lobsters in front of the restaurant!"
The Fisherman's House Restaurant
Born into a family where cooking was learned "on the job," Christophe insisted on going to school. Now equipped with a DEC in restaurant management from Collège Mérici in Quebec City, he feels ready to face the harsh reality of the restaurant world. "The course was mainly about numbers and management. It's the part that seems less behind restaurants, but it's really important," he explains. "Anyway, you can never know everything in the kitchen. I intend to learn until the end." As the summer season approaches, and it promises to be busier than ever, dozens of reservations are being booked every day at La Maison du Pêcheur. The family restaurant has become a staple in Percé. "We're going to be full, and even busier!" says Christophe's mother and restaurant owner, France Lebreux. No matter the coming high tides, Christophe Mamelonet doesn't plan on leaving his Percé home, and especially not his restaurant. Except perhaps during the winter. "We've had some great offers in Europe; it would be a bit different, wouldn't it?"
***** A fierce fight for the laurel The fight for the Laurier for Revelation of the Year award will be particularly fierce. The competition includes the chef who won the 10th edition of the show Les Chefs!, Camilo Nacimento-Lapointe (Menu Extra, Montreal), Fanny Ducharme (L'Épicurieux, Val-David), Anita Feng (J'ai Feng, Montreal) as well as Arianne Faucher & Nicolas Quinto (Beaumier Bar à vin, Piedmont). Four other Gaspé producers are among the nominees for the Lauriers de la Gastronomie. Benoît Couillard of Brasserie Auval in Val-d'Espoir is in the running for Brewer, Winemaker, or Beverage Producer of the Year. Antoine Nicolas, who specializes in seaweed harvesting, could win Producer of the Year, while Carl Pelletier, who represents Couleur Chocolat in Sainte-Anne-des-Monts, could be named Artisan of the Year or even win the Gastronomic Tourism Award. The 2021 winners will be announced on May 24. ***** RECIPE
Gaspé lobster on the BBQ with smoked paprika oil As lobster season is in full swing, Christophe Mamelonet, invited by the Regroupement des pêcheurs professionnels du sud de la Gaspésie, shares a different way of enjoying the famous crustacean. INGREDIENTS
  • 2 fresh Gaspé lobsters (about 1 1/2 lbs)
  • 80 ml canola oil
  • 20 ml olive oil
  • ½ tsp smoked paprika
  • 1 clove of garlic, finely chopped
  • ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper
  • 1 tbsp chopped fresh chives
  • 1 tbsp chopped fresh parsley
Butter :
  • 200 g salted butter
  • 4 cloves of fresh garlic, finely chopped
  • ¼ cup white wine
  • ¼ cup fresh lemon juice
  • Salt and pepper (to taste)
Vegetables :
  • 2 green onions with the bulb
  • 1 zucchini
  • 1 eggplant
  • 2 corn with skin
  • 2 fresh lemons
  • 5-6 mini colored peppers
  • 30 ml canola oil
  • 3 sprigs of fresh thyme
  • Salt and pepper (to taste)
PREPARATION
  1. Sweat the garlic cloves in a saucepan with a little butter. Deglaze with the white wine and reduce by half.
  2. Add the lemon juice and remaining butter. Add seasoning to taste.
  3. Heat the canola oil with the olive oil. Add the garlic, pepper, and paprika. Let it steep for 10 minutes over low heat.
  4. Strain the oil through a fine sieve and let cool. Add the herbs to the oil mixture.
  5. Heat the barbecue to maximum power.
  6. Blanch the lobsters in salted water for 3 minutes.
  7. Cut the lobsters lengthwise and remove the hepatopancreas.
  8. Brush the lobster meat with the smoked paprika oil and place the lobsters on the barbecue grill, meat side down.
  9. Reduce heat to medium and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, then turn the lobsters over and brush again. Continue cooking for 5 minutes and remove from heat.
  10. For corn, peel off the first layer of husk and remove the strings. Keep the other layers while grilling.
  11. Slice the zucchini into 1 cm thick slices. Cut the peppers in half and remove the seeds. Cut the lemons in half and the green onions lengthwise.
  12. Preheat the barbecue to maximum power.
  13. Place the corn on the grill and adjust the temperature to medium. Cook for 30 minutes, turning every 10 minutes.
  14. Meanwhile, brush the other vegetables with oil, fresh thyme, salt and pepper and cook them with the fresh lemons for 5 minutes.
  15. Peel the corn and cut it into three.
  16. Assemble the plates.
Enjoy your food!